Constantly rebooting Echo

[mmurley]

After getting my new InfiniTV 6 ETH up and running on my network (including having to have lots of quality time with TWC to get my cable authorized) and I still don't have a working tuning adapter); I hooked up my Echo.

Installed the Echo plugin. Activated it in WMC (Win 7 Home Premium). Updated it using the plugin. Watched some TV.

Live TV plays for 5 minutes then the Echo resets / reboots / re-initializes itself. Any attempt to play recorded TV makes the Echo reset.

Submitted a ticket ( Ticket ID: MQZ-814-87326) with a diagnostics capture.

Anyone else have this?

[Ed]

Plenty of others here, including myself, have experienced this when we had our Echos. The solution is an Xbox 360. You will get no fix from Ceton. The Echo is EOL.

[cwinfield]

which fw are you running? See if there is a newer version in beta channel. maybe a recovery with a fresh programming will work better for you. http://www.thegreenbutton.tv/forums/vie ... =69&t=3689

[mmurley]

Actually its not even 3 minutes. Stopwatch shows just 2:48:42 on LiveTV.

And XBox 360s? That's a pile of change. 4GB ones okay? That's $180 each.

I was hoping to use my Matricom G-Box as one and the Echo as the other.

The G-Box works but XBMC /serverWMC isn't pulling all the channels (Gotham XMBC; WMC PVR add on; serverWMC running on HTPC) and I can't figure out why.

The Echo works, but for less than 3 minutes at a time.

I'm trying cwinfield's suggestion now.

[mmurley]

Okay, after doing the recovery and reauthorizing the Echo, it says it's version 2013:304:1657 and settings version13.01.16.0480.

It ran for 3:30 (minutes:seconds) before restarting itself.

And I notice that the XBox subforum is full of threads about XBoxes not working either.

Is there any extenders that do work?

[cwinfield]

What you might want to try next is update your NIC drivers directly from Realtek, Broadcom, intel etc, how about your routers firmware? I know it sounds weird but echo is known to crash itself and sometimes the HTPC due to NIC related issues. You may just have a bad echo and need to RMA it.

[adam1991]

Plenty of others here, including myself, have experienced this when we had our Echos. The solution is an Xbox 360. You will get no fix from Ceton. The Echo is EOL.

You spelled that wrong.

[Jimmersd]

I have to agree here. You need to check the settings on your HTPC NIC to make sure that it is configured properly. Make sure that all of the Offload items are disabled, Flow control is enabled, Green or power saving functions are disabled. I have my speed locked to 1Gbps and the send receive buffers are maxed.

I have very few problems that I can blame directly on the Echo(s).

You haven't described the topology of your network. Are you using a switch(s)? Are you assigning IP addresses to all of the multimedia devices on your network?

[Crash2009]

Is there any extenders that do work?

Yes. Mine.

Here is something easy to try. Open up a web browser and type your echo's IP address into the address bar. As you can see mine is (i'll skip the dots) 192168171.

Try different TV Resolution settings. 480, 720, 1080, or Native.

If you have all ready updated the drivers for your HTPC's NIC, the next thing to check is grounding. Make sure your echo is plugged into the same outlet strip as the TV it is connected to.

Try a different Ethernet cable both on the HTPC and the Echo, and by the way they (and the router) should be plugged into the same GIG Switch. In some homes this is almost impossible without a sledgehammer and a drill, but get some loooong Ethernet patch cables to test it out.

The last thing is to get real friendly with your router and if it's a POS (and I'm not saying it is) toss it or slap it into submission.

Just trying to give ya a couple things to try out before you turn it into a doorstop. They are finicky little creatures. Most people have a love/hate relationship with them.

[mmurley]

My network runs from the TWC cable modem to a D-Link Wireless N Dual Band Router to a TRENDnet 16-Port Unmanaged 10/100 Mbps GREENnet Ethernet Switch (TE100-S16EG ). The HTPC is off that switch, which has a ethernet cable to the bed room where it connects to a NETGEAR GS105 ProSafe 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch which connects the Ceton InfiniTV 6 ETH (because that's the closest CTV coax) and the Ceton Echo.

Prior to installing the Ceton Echo I had a Matricom G-Box android box on the bedroom switch (prior to the Ceton InfiniTV 6 arriving that was all that was on that switch). I used it to run XBMC as a streaming device running media off my Acer H340 headless WIndow Home Server (see below).

Off the main switch is also (1) Acer H340 WHS, (2) Epson WF-3540 all-in-one printer, (3) and Verizon cell network extender - and (4) my laptop when I'm home.

There is a ethernet run to the far end of the house with another gigabit switch (WiFi access point, Roku, and Asus O!Play).

I have assigned a static IP to the Acer H340 and the Epson printer, but not to the other devices.

[mmurley]

Try a different Ethernet cable both on the HTPC and the Echo, and by the way they (and the router) should be plugged into the same GIG Switch. In some homes this is almost impossible without a sledgehammer and a drill, but get some loooong Ethernet patch cables to test it out.

The part in red boogles the mind.

What is the purpose of an extender if it has to be on the same switch as the HTPC and the router? I have two 'primary' TVs. One is in our bed room (other side of the wall from the cable modem, router, HTPC, WHS server, all-in-one, etc.) and I have 1 ethernet cable going into the bedroom.

The other TV is at the far end of the house and while there is an ethernet cable to that room, it terminates in a gigabit switch that supports multiple devices.

It would be cheaper and simpler to put another HTPC in each room. Or box all this up and make my peace with TWC's equipment.

[Crash2009]

My network runs from the TWC cable modem to a D-Link Wireless N Dual Band Router to a TRENDnet 16-Port Unmanaged 10/100 Mbps GREENnet Ethernet Switch (TE100-S16EG ). The HTPC is off that switch, which has a ethernet cable to the bed room where it connects to a NETGEAR GS105 ProSafe 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch which connects the Ceton InfiniTV 6 ETH (because that's the closest CTV coax) and the Ceton Echo.

Run a patch cord from the HTPC to the NETGEAR GS105 ProSafe 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch, then cold boot everything. Ya never know, it just might work.

[Ed]

You could always buy an Xbox from a store and return it before the stores return period expires. This way you can see if your issue is the Echo or your network (but as I originally claimed, I believe it to be the Echo - not your network). If it did turn out to be the network - you return the Xbox as I said and you aren't out any more money than you currently are. You can then continue to pin down the network issue.

I understand the feeling of getting burned by an initial bad purchase - as stated, plenty of us here felt the burn ourselves.

[mmurley]

Is there any extenders that do work?

Yes. Mine.

Here is something easy to try. Open up a web browser and type your echo's IP address into the address bar. As you can see mine is (i'll skip the dots) 192168171.

Try different TV Resolution settings. 480, 720, 1080, or Native.

I'll try this tomorrow.

Ceton looked at my diagnostics and thinks it's the McAfee security software that came on the Dell I'm using as the HTPC. I uninstalled that and we'll see.

I boxed up the Echo. I'll reinstall it tomorrow and we'll see.

[Crash2009]

Try a different Ethernet cable both on the HTPC and the Echo, and by the way they (and the router) should be plugged into the same GIG Switch.

The part in red boogles the mind.

I don't know. I just know it works. I think the router might be optional, but if you are going that route, one more wire is no biggie. I'm sure some of the technical experts around here have an explanation. But basically you are coming out of the HTPC at GIG-then the 16 port throttles you down to 100-then you go back up to GIG when you get to the GS105. ETH 6 and Echo are both supposed to be on a GIG network, the HTPC should be part of that same network. Trade the 16 port 10/100 in for a GIG switch and you'll be in a lot better shape. I'm just suggesting you test it out, and if it works, then you know what you got to do. 24 port GIG switches have been cheap on e-bay for some time now.

One other thing.....the buffer in the 16 might be too small to buffer GIG. Wireshark that puppy, I'll bet there's a pile of 0's and 1's laying on the floor.

[mmurley]

I'm replacing the 10/100 16 port switch with a 16 port gig switch. For some reason I thought it was a gig switch.

[Crash2009]

I'm replacing the 10/100 16 port switch with a 16 port gig switch. For some reason I thought it was a gig switch.

Oops. Not sure if it matters, but the D-link is not Gig either http://www.dlink.com/us/en/home-solutio ... and-router When I signed up here, the guys suggested that I should go all GIG, so I did. 17 Cat5E runs through a 100 year old brick and plaster 4 story, 3 runs under driveway to a detached garage. What a way to spend a summer.

We have an XBMC/ServerWMC thread started over here......http://www.thegreenbutton.tv/forums/vie ... 297#p62297

[Jimmersd]

My network runs from the TWC cable modem to a D-Link Wireless N Dual Band Router to a TRENDnet 16-Port Unmanaged 10/100 Mbps GREENnet Ethernet Switch (TE100-S16EG ). The HTPC is off that switch, which has a ethernet cable to the bed room where it connects to a NETGEAR GS105 ProSafe 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch which connects the Ceton InfiniTV 6 ETH (because that's the closest CTV coax) and the Ceton Echo.

Prior to installing the Ceton Echo I had a Matricom G-Box android box on the bedroom switch (prior to the Ceton InfiniTV 6 arriving that was all that was on that switch). I used it to run XBMC as a streaming device running media off my Acer H340 headless WIndow Home Server (see below).

Off the main switch is also (1) Acer H340 WHS, (2) Epson WF-3540 all-in-one printer, (3) and Verizon cell network extender - and (4) my laptop when I'm home.

There is a ethernet run to the far end of the house with another gigabit switch (WiFi access point, Roku, and Asus O!Play).

I have assigned a static IP to the Acer H340 and the Epson printer, but not to the other devices.

This is very similar to my network topology. I use the same GS105's the same way. The only differences are the tuners, I use SD HDHR Primes and I use a smart switch in the head-end. First I would recommend that you reserve IP address's in your router for everything that is permanently connected to the network (Echos, Other Computers, Servers, PDU's etc...). Give those devices all the numbers below *.*.*.100 (obviously this depends on the class). This is different from Static IP's which Ceton will tell you the Echo doesn't support but it effectively does the same thing.

Then set your DHCP server in your router to only allow new dynamic IP's to be assigned above 100. Not only does this make it easier to ID what is connected, if you look at your DHCP clients list you can also easily see if someone has wirelessly hacked into your network.

Hardware is always an issue. Cable degrades and fittings get loose. The recommendation that you hook the echo directly to your main switch for test purposes is a good one. You need to have a small TV to hook up the Echo. Also try replacing the CAT5/6 patch cables. This can cause many problems.

Also, other devices on, or close to, the power lines that the echo uses, Microwaves, AC, Fridge. If your lights dim when any of these devices are in operation this can be a problem. For instance I have noticed that when I use my microwave my Echo might freeze.

Finally, there was much made early on about using the wall wart that came with the Echo. Make sure that you use that.

My system has been mostly stable for well over a year, albit with the occasional hickup which I have since cured with a new recording Hard Drive. But it is far from junk as some here would insist.

[Jimmersd]

..ohh one more thing. Try disconnecting other devices on the network to see if there might be interference.

[Crash2009]

FWIW, I did a couple little tests this morning to see how sending packets through different devices effect the throughput. I used this little flooding tool called pathtest. Pathtest has to be running on both PC's. It is similar to the old iperf. What it does is it sends as many packets as it can (from one IP to the other) for a duration of about 5 seconds. The amount of packets that are transmitted and received in that time frame would be the throughput. I was curious to see what my own network was doing, and I thought it might relate to this post. Hopefully I get the pictures posted in the correct order. What I did was make my HTPC the pathtest server, then hit it from a few different places on the network. The task manager graphs are on the HTPC.

The first test 199 to 13, is a gig Broadcom nic in a laptop, through a gig router RT-N56U, to a gig switch Powerconnect 5324, and finally to the Atheros AR8121/AR8113/AR8114 on the HTPC. I would assume the 570.013 mbps bottleneck is the laptop, I doubt its the router, but I have not tried it directly to the switch yet.

The second test 68 to 13, is my old XP box (likely non gig), through a gig Trendnet TEG-S80g, through the Powerconnect again, to the Atheros AR8121/AR8113/AR8114. 68, streams some old movies pretty well but it had some trouble streaming ATI-TV Wonder-so it's sort of been sent out to pasture. 96.946 mbps seems to be fine for the old movies.

The third test 180 to 13, is a gig Broadcom in a Win 7 box, through the gig Trendnet TEG-S80g again, through the Powerconnect again, and back to the HTPC. I'm sure that 976.308 mbps can do whatever I throw at it.

The point of this exercise is run some tests to determine what's up with your network. You might have the odd bad cable or connection. Test it. PM me with your email if you want a copy of pathtest.