InfiniTV 6 ETH Disassembly

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DJX

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InfiniTV 6 ETH Disassembly

#1

Post by DJX » Fri Jul 18, 2014 1:18 am

While strategizing on how best to cool my InfiniTV 6 ETH, I took it apart to inspect where I could possible add fans.
Currently, at peak times, I'm around 72C, so I need to do something.
It sits in my server room with a bunch of other stuff so it gets kind of hot.
Still, even my Cisco 3750X is around 40-45C at peak times

I am thinking of bolting up two 40x10 to the top lid.
One front right, bringing air in.
One back left, taking air out.

Still thinking but thought I'd share pics of the inside since I haven't seen anyone post these before.
Ideas welcome.
Thanks!

Board is actually marked:
Ceton InfiniTV 4
Model No. 5102-DCT04EX
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barnabas1969

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#2

Post by barnabas1969 » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:16 am

My suggestion is to make sure there is no link between your username here and the information that Ceton has about you. If you ever need to use your warrantee, you'll be screwed if Ceton finds out that you opened the case.

As for cooling... several people have used laptop coolers. Others have simply stood it up vertically so that the air could flow easier over the printed circuit board.

Ultimately, my suggestion would be... sell it and buy two Silicondust HD HomeRun PRIME tuners. But if you've searched around here, you already know my opinion about that.

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#3

Post by barnabas1969 » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:17 am

Oops! The serial number is clearly visible in your picture... so you're screwed.

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#4

Post by Ed  » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:18 am

Yeah, I'd cover up any serial numbers/etc exposed in those photos. They already try to blame anything and everything else when something goes wrong with one of their products as evident by these forums; you're just giving them a really easy out.

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#5

Post by DJX » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:25 am

I'm not really worried about the warranty.
The unit overheats like crazy anyway so something must be done.
Some argue that there is nothing wrong with the design of this unit but I beg to differ.
They are not going to redesign it so I'm going to have to modify it anyway.

I don't really see how taking a cover off would void the warranty anyway.
It's not much different then touching the PCI-E version of this tuner.
That's why I didn't bother blurring the serial.

If I was worried about voiding the warranty all the time, I wouldn't have a lot of the things I have.
I'm careful and take my time with things.
Last edited by DJX on Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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#6

Post by Ed  » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:26 am

Eh, your choice. We were just trying to look out for you is all :)

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#7

Post by DJX » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:31 am

No problem man.
Anyway, I was just looking for input and suggestions.
I'm going to play with it anyway, might as well get some feedback.
Who knows, maybe this will help someone else down the road.

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STC

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#8

Post by STC » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:34 am

The tuners are on the underside which are the parts that put out a lot of heat.
Without external cooling, tilting the Eth on it's side helps, so consider cooling from the underside with something like a laptop cooler if you are wanting to leave it on its feet.
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#9

Post by DJX » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:51 am

STC wrote:The tuners are on the underside which are the parts that put out a lot of heat.
Without external cooling, tilting the Eth on it's side helps, so consider cooling from the underside with something like a laptop cooler if you are wanting to leave it on its feet.
Ok cool thanks...exactly the kind of input I was looking for.
I'll pop the PCB out later this weekend and see if I can't come up with some other ideas for the bottom. Maybe a dual approach...some on the bottom, some on the top.

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#10

Post by STC » Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:58 am

DJX, that info may be false. I've just taken a look at mine and there are no tuners underneath. I think I am thinking of some of their dev boards from a while ago.
It looks like the tuners are under the tin box RF shield on the top side. That's where most of the heat is coming from on mine.

Apologies for the confusion.
If your location is warm to begin with then I think any sort of fan rig would help move heat away.
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#11

Post by Ed  » Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:36 am

I know a bunch of you guys strap fans to your InfiniTVs; but have you ever asked yourself why you need to? Or, if you need to, why it didn't come with said fan built in/to begin with? Or, do you not wanna ask yourself those questions? I just find it odd to stick with a product that doesn't work correctly OOB that should work OOB; that you then have to MacGuyver to work like it should have OOB to begin with.

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#12

Post by STC » Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:42 am

I don't have a fan on mine. The OP said his Eth is in a hot environment.
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#13

Post by RyC » Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:43 am

6 tuners with one cablecard!

Yeah yeah, you can get 2 primes...

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#14

Post by Ed  » Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:08 am

STC wrote:I don't have a fan on mine. The OP said his Eth is in a hot environment.
No, not you. But there have been other people here that I'm sure you even are aware of who have posted pics of fans they've strapped to their Cetons, and/or talked about it. Someone with a bright orange fan IIRC posted pics of his.
RyC wrote:6 tuners with one cablecard!

Yeah yeah, you can get 2 primes...
And that's a legitimate point. But, then it comes down to 'do the pros outweigh the cons'. Which, is subjective; I admit. I just couldn't see that being so in my case, with CCs running $3 or so (admittedly, I don't have CC at all though - so take that for what you will :P ).

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#15

Post by tletourneau » Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:55 am

Mine is in a warm environment too, I zip tied a 115V AC Cooltron Low Speed Fan with Power Plug and Metal Guard 80 x 80 x 38 mm 23 CFM | Noise: 28 dBA | Speed: 2000 RPM | Power: 4 W | Bearings: Dual Ball from Amazon. Works great, no more heat problems.
Thanks,
Tom

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#16

Post by DJX » Fri Jul 18, 2014 12:48 pm

Yeah, I don't think there is anything on the bottom that needs its own fan.
I figured the tuners were under the RF shield.

I think I'm going to go with the two fan approach on the top lid (one taking in, one taking out).
I'm looking at the Noctua A-Series NF-A4x10 fans, I've had great success with these units in the past.
I can blue the screws so that they are darker and match the case better.
It shouldn't look too bad.
Just have to figure out a way to power them.

I'm thinking I can find 6v or 12v somewhere on the board and tap into that.
That way it will be all inside.
I'll break out the multi-meter when I get more time to work on this.

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#17

Post by blueiedgod » Wed Jul 23, 2014 4:30 pm

Ed  wrote:I know a bunch of you guys strap fans to your InfiniTVs; but have you ever asked yourself why you need to? Or, if you need to, why it didn't come with said fan built in/to begin with? Or, do you not wanna ask yourself those questions? I just find it odd to stick with a product that doesn't work correctly OOB that should work OOB; that you then have to MacGuyver to work like it should have OOB to begin with.
I always ensure adequate cooling for electronics. I have fans under the wire rack where the equipment sits. Everything, modem, MTA, router, switch, TA, Tuner, NASes, everything gets active/additional cooling. It is a small price to pay for stability.

Learned it long time ago with an overheating Linksys router. Took forever to figure out why our internet was dropping out all the time.

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#18

Post by DJX » Wed Jul 23, 2014 5:10 pm

Absolutely.
If this product was thoroughly tested, these heat issues would have been detected and mitigated.
This unit seems like it should be able to be integrated into a server room or wiring closet.
In this case it would be very obvious that the unit does not operate as expected.
Even the smallest of fans would help in this case.

Even now, while I'm waiting for my fans, with the lid off and no air movement, it idles at 50C.
It use to idle at 60C.

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#19

Post by barnabas1969 » Wed Jul 23, 2014 5:38 pm

Try standing it up vertically. It will run cooler.

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#20

Post by DJX » Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:55 pm

Mod complete!

I am very happy with the results.
Looks very good.
No drilling required.

Details to follow later when I have more time.

Take care.
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