New Media Center Server Build Advice

[barnabas1969]

I believe there are some video settings you can change that may help the 29/59 issue. I can't remember the specifics, but I'm sure if you search, you can find them. Richard can chime in on this... he's the resident expert on the 29/59 problem.

[carljanderson]

Did some testing with the link to the 29/59 video and yes the 6530D on my A6-3650 is definitely affected by it unfortunately.

if you haven't already, go into the Vision Engine Control Center, and de-select "Enable Dynamic Contrast" (it is in Video -> Quality). For me (A8-3850; 6550D), that has made to most difference.

[Beradon]

Appreciate the suggestion. I attempted to change the dynamic contrast option but it doesnt seem to have made a huge amount of difference.

For reference, I'm using Catalyst 12.1

My A6-3650 with 6530D is just a toned down A8. Even is in the same package with the same TDP despite not needing that much power.

EDIT:

Here's a different question. Does the 29/59 bug only appear with DVR'd video or when watching live tv as well?

[Beradon]

Another question, this time about remotes.

I'm figuring I'll eventually get a logitech harmony in some form, but until that point, what seems to be the best working option, and one that will easily transition to a harmony (IE: exists in the harmony database)?

[barnabas1969]

The 29/59 problem would appear when watching live TV as well.

I know that the standard MCE remote is in the Harmony database. Not sure about others. I don't use a Harmony... mostly because I'm cheap. I use an Acoustic Research AR-RX18G ($50 on amazon). I have the MCE remote dongle, plus another dongle that you can read more about at http://www.seabyrdtech.com/bbvideo/remote-programs. That extra little remote gives me some extra functionality that is not available with the MCE remote... and both dongles are in the Acoustic Research database.

[carljanderson]

Appreciate the suggestion. I attempted to change the dynamic contrast option but it doesnt seem to have made a huge amount of difference.

For reference, I'm using Catalyst 12.1

My A6-3650 with 6530D is just a toned down A8. Even is in the same package with the same TDP despite not needing that much power.

EDIT:

Here's a different question. Does the 29/59 bug only appear with DVR'd video or when watching live tv as well?

I would start disabling some of the other advanced video processing. I know I have a lot of them disabled. Forget which ones at this point. I will try to check later tonight or tomorrow.

[Beradon]

I messed around a bit in the settings, basically everything is disabled right now, its *a little* better, but not great.

Is this mostly a problem with premium channels or will a lot of channels portray this issue.

[carljanderson]

I messed around a bit in the settings, basically everything is disabled right now, its *a little* better, but not great.

Is this mostly a problem with premium channels or will a lot of channels portray this issue.

for me it was especially noticeable with HBO and I one of the others (Cinemx or Starzz, I forget.) I haven't seen it anywhere else, yet. I have Verizon's FiOS in VHO3.

[Beradon]

Ceton InfiniTV 4 and cablecard come today. WHS2011 box has been up for almost a week. Pretty excited to get this goin.

[Beradon]

Well after a few minor headaches, everything is setup and running great. I appreciate the suggestions and help you guys gave me.

I ended up with the Ceton InfiniTV 4 in the WHS2011 server with the Tuner Adapter also attached to that, and I am running 7MC from the Nintendo-PC, which is being extended to an XBox 360 (maybe eventually more than one).

I guess the only disappointment I'm seeing in this is that there is no way to remotely stream the shows that I record, unless someone knows something that they could share with me, but it appears DRM prevents it, and being that I'm on Time Warner, everything is copy once.

The biggest headaches I experienced were the tuner adapter synching properly, getting 7MC to understand that after the tuners were setup over the network that they actually existed (corrected by rebooting both the MC box and the server a couple times), and the fact that bridging the Ceton with the WHS2011 NIC broke the web access capability of the server until I forwarded the proper ports on my E4200 since WHS2011 doesnt send UPNP through a bridged connection. Also, I hadnt realized that the network setup process in Windows Media Center would constantly reset the IP address on the Ceton from the static IP I had selected to a DHCP address unless you set it up manually.

[barnabas1969]

How's the cooling doing on that "Nintendo" PC after you run Media Center for a couple of hours?

[Beradon]

How's the cooling doing on that "Nintendo" PC after you run Media Center for a couple of hours?

It's running lid-off right now because I havent yet received my pico-psu and the Gelid Slim Silence cooler yet. I had to order a new pico-psu (higher wattage) and a cooler that would fit this board despite being the same brand and style as the cooler i had previously.

Previously the system ran well lid closed with the original pico-psu and a Gelid Slim Silence 775 (on a Pentium Dual Core e7400 (65w TDP)) on a Zotac ITX 9300 WIFI board. The Geforce 9300 and chipset on that board ran hot as hell with no active cooling. I actually expect this one to do better since its a single point of heat that is actively cooled and I've underclocked and undervolted it.

Currently its running 2.1GHz at 1.075V on the processor despite being rated for 2.6GHz at 1.4125V. I havent yet tried to go below 1.075v but I'm considering giving it a shot.

I plan on installing 2 low RPM 40mm fans on the intake vent on top of the Nintendo, I had one there previously but it was rather loud so I'm changing the fan style.

[barnabas1969]

How's the cooling doing on that "Nintendo" PC after you run Media Center for a couple of hours?

It's running lid-off right now because I havent yet received my pico-psu and the Gelid Slim Silence cooler yet. I had to order a new pico-psu (higher wattage) and a cooler that would fit this board despite being the same brand and style as the cooler i had previously.

Previously the system ran well lid closed with the original pico-psu and a Gelid Slim Silence 775 (on a Pentium Dual Core e7400 (65w TDP)) on a Zotac ITX 9300 WIFI board. The Geforce 9300 and chipset on that board ran hot as hell with no active cooling. I actually expect this one to do better since its a single point of heat that is actively cooled and I've underclocked and undervolted it.

Currently its running 2.1GHz at 1.075V on the processor despite being rated for 2.6GHz at 1.4125V. I havent yet tried to go below 1.075v but I'm considering giving it a shot.

I plan on installing 2 low RPM 40mm fans on the intake vent on top of the Nintendo, I had one there previously but it was rather loud so I'm changing the fan style.

I understand how much time you invested in making a PC look like an old Nintendo, but I have to wonder if it's worth the trouble you're going through to make it run cool enough. Couldn't you just put those Nintendo controller ports in the front of an HTPC case and call it a day?

[Beradon]

How's the cooling doing on that "Nintendo" PC after you run Media Center for a couple of hours?

It's running lid-off right now because I havent yet received my pico-psu and the Gelid Slim Silence cooler yet. I had to order a new pico-psu (higher wattage) and a cooler that would fit this board despite being the same brand and style as the cooler i had previously.

Previously the system ran well lid closed with the original pico-psu and a Gelid Slim Silence 775 (on a Pentium Dual Core e7400 (65w TDP)) on a Zotac ITX 9300 WIFI board. The Geforce 9300 and chipset on that board ran hot as hell with no active cooling. I actually expect this one to do better since its a single point of heat that is actively cooled and I've underclocked and undervolted it.

Currently its running 2.1GHz at 1.075V on the processor despite being rated for 2.6GHz at 1.4125V. I havent yet tried to go below 1.075v but I'm considering giving it a shot.

I plan on installing 2 low RPM 40mm fans on the intake vent on top of the Nintendo, I had one there previously but it was rather loud so I'm changing the fan style.

I understand how much time you invested in making a PC look like an old Nintendo, but I have to wonder if it's worth the trouble you're going through to make it run cool enough. Couldn't you just put those Nintendo controller ports in the front of an HTPC case and call it a day?

You know, I've considered it, but the fact that its an old 8-bit Nintendo is just too damn cool. Especially since the, power LED, power and reset buttons work. And has functioning ports for the original Nintendo controllers I still have. Plus, talk about nostalgia, this is *my* original 8 bit Nintendo, I've had it for 25 years.

[barnabas1969]

Yeah, I get it... but if your goal is mainly to be able to still play those old Nintendo games, I'm sure you could put those controller ports in the front of a new HTPC.

[Beradon]

Nah, my goal was this:

To have an all-around 'buck stops here' media center machine while looking cool and nostalgic.

Not to mention, I was able to build both the server (including purchasing the InfiniTV) and update the Nintendo for less than $500 since I inherited a bunch of computer hardware and won the Antec Lanboy Air case the server resides in from an Antec contest on Facebook.

With the specs of the machine, while not 'wonderful', I think I've managed to do that, especially since the InfiniTV and Tuning Adapter are hooked into the server which does not sit where the TV is.

In terms of media playback the specs:

AMD A6-3650
8 gig 1600MHz Memory
Asus F1A75-I Deluxe
320 gig hard drive (with the Recorded TV and the rest of my media residing on the WHS2011 server)
Slot-load Blu-ray drive

Can handle basically everything I can throw at it, while still managing to fit in the slim space I designed for it and looking sweet in the process.

When the front hatch on the Nintendo is closed, it still looks like the classic Nintendo it used to be.

[Beradon]

So twice today I've experienced an issue where we'll be watching TV just fine, then the screen will go blue and say that a subscription is required.

These are channels I am supposed to get, but it keeps cutting out. Any particular reason for this?

[barnabas1969]

These are the things you can try:

**Check signal strength and SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio) on the channel in question. If SNR is less than 35 or if signal strength on that channel is outside -7 to +7, fix the problem.
**Try re-seating your CableCARD (with power off).
**Try calling the cable company and ask them to send a "hit" to your card.
**Try replacing the CableCARD.

[Beradon]

These are the things you can try:

**Check signal strength and SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio) on the channel in question. If SNR is less than 35 or if signal strength on that channel is outside -7 to +7, fix the problem.
**Try re-seating your CableCARD (with power off).
**Try calling the cable company and ask them to send a "hit" to your card.
**Try replacing the CableCARD.

Thanks for the response.

I'm not home at the moment so I checked the signals remotely

Signal Level -14 dbmv (average, some tuners its at -13.8, others over -15)
SNR is 35.6 db

So from what I understand, my signal is fairly poor?

[Beradon]

So I switched out the splitter on my setup and got the signal from -14 to -4.5dbmv and for a short time things got a bit better, but it seems as time goes on things are getting worse again.

My Ceton still says the signal is in good shape, but the pixelating and freezing is getting worse. Also still occasionally getting subscription required and no signal.

Any other suggestions?

EDIT:

And my InfiniTV just crashed and restarted